Minggu, 30 Agustus 2009

If this run of swell continues into winter....


7'6" Round pin single- $750

7' Baby swallow single- $725

6'5" double bump single $675

...you might want one of these and as always an email to info at foamandfunction.com will do the trick. All Lynch designs shaped by Tim Griffin, who can do a custom if you want and has a really nice line in 2+1 setups, something I'm very fond of when there's a bit of water moving around. All these boards are hand shaped by Tim to Wayne's specs which makes them a pretty excellent score- no machined close tolerance blanks here. Although one of my favourite boards is straight out of the computer and I think you should surf whatever makes you happy, I have nothing but respect for the shapers out there who mow foam from a blank and end up with something like these. I know we're meant to hate imports/popouts what have you, but something that has just had the crust scrubbed off it seems pretty much like a popout to me, especially when it's easy enough to feed someone else's dimensions into a machine and there you go- witness all the mini Sim versions out there. All a bit hypocritical it seems. I get the 'support your local shaper' concept, but what if your local shaper isn't Wayne Lynch, Joe Bauguess, Dick Brewer or whoever? Does it make it OK for someone to sell a cheap version of their design? Lynch takes flak for having models with Surftech, but his motivation for that was basically that his designs get duplicated anyway, so he may as well make something on the deal. Not the best way to go about it in my opinion, but now he's got Tim making his boards which is a far better option. Sorry about the rant, surf whatever your conscience says is right, but a doff of the cap to the likes of Tim, Joe, Mick Mackie, Jeff Beck, Jamie Murray, Rob Royal, Pendo and the other craftsmen at work (many who have blogs listed to your right). They deserve our support because it's their efforts that drive the whole design process forward. I'll shut up now, I think I'm a bit surf happy from a week's worth of closeouts on the noggin.

Finding Time for God in Our Busyness

It was 4 p.m. and I was in the DMV. Entering the front door I almost decided to go back out because the place was full of people. But I heard a woman's voice asking, “Can I help you?” I said, “I need to renew my car registration.” Then woman said “Get a number and take a seat.” After sometime long enough for me to get restless, a woman’s voice came over the intercom, “Now serving number 319 at window 9.” So I stood up and went to window 9. Only to realize that they only take check and I don’t have my check book.

I wonder with our busyness through ever increasing connections everyday, how do we find time to serve God?

Thanks to Facebook and MySpace, we now have connections to more friends more than what we can handle. We also have an explosion of information where, with Twitter, you get informed with anyone’s activities anytime and quicker and more personal than any news service.
How do you think do all these affect us and our time with God? (see Luke 9:22 and Mark 12:30).

I asked this question from the 68 fans of AACC in Facebook and waited for their response. You know what? Not one responded!

I guess, God-topic is not as exciting as Farmville or Yoville? In today’s Social Networking Generation, God has to take a number to get served, especially if He does not respond right away to our Facebook posts or questions. We are so used to almost instant responses now that anyone who does not respond or interact with us right away gets “Hidden” or worse “defriended.”

How does our busyness affect our relationship with God? Here’s what I have noticed:

1st. Distracted, unable to focus and give our best consistently to God.
2nd. Miserable. When we know too much concerns but remains powerless to change our situation, we tend to become miserable. The wisdom of the Sage in Ecclesiastes 1:18, tells us this, “For with much wisdom comes much sorrow; the more knowledge, the more grief.”
3. Enslaved. Unable to give God any time because we are in debt to serve or pay for our cravings.
4. Mediocre. We tend to give God the least of what we have, the remnants of our strength and abilities. We tend to give him the common instead of the exceptional. When we go to church, we wear our run down clothes instead of our for runway, better clothes, which we willingly wear going to work or parties. We give him $1.00 tips instead of our tithes.
5. Confused. We come to church like we’re the doctor instead of the patient. You know, in clinics, we wait for the doctor to call us. But in church, we let God wait for us. We tell him to tell us in advance if He wants us to serve Him.

Coping with the Busyness of Life

Let me ask you something: How many of you here today have busy lives? How many of you wish you could slow down and replenish your spirit? And renew your strength? That was the question asked in a CNN poll. And 59% of all Americans answered by saying, "Yes. I wish I could slow down. I wish I could cope better with the busyness of life."

Read about one busy day in the life of our Lord in Mark 1:29-38, to find the source of His strength and ability to stay focused on his goal to serve the LORD.

Mark 1:29-38 (New International Version)

29As soon as they left the synagogue, they went with James and John to the home of Simon and Andrew. 30Simon's mother-in-law was in bed with a fever, and they told Jesus about her. 31So he went to her, took her hand and helped her up. The fever left her and she began to wait on them.
32That evening after sunset the people brought to Jesus all the sick and demon-possessed. 33The whole town gathered at the door, 34and Jesus healed many who had various diseases. He also drove out many demons, but he would not let the demons speak because they knew who he was.
Jesus Prays in a Solitary Place 35Very early in the morning, while it was still dark, Jesus got up, left the house and went off to a solitary place, where he prayed. 36Simon and his companions went to look for him, 37and when they found him, they exclaimed: "Everyone is looking for you!"
38Jesus replied, "Let us go somewhere else—to the nearby villages—so I can preach there also. That is why I have come."


Next time, we'll learn about the three keys on how to find time to serve the Lord even in our busy schedules and to actually succeed.

Kamis, 27 Agustus 2009

ODT - Nature's way may be Middle Beach answer

Nature's way may be Middle Beach answer

ODT Thu, 27 Aug 2009

The initial response to coastal erosion is often the construction of a sea wall, but Phillip Cole argues that will not do the job at Middle Beach. He advocates a policy of "managed retreat" instead.

Pictures and stories last month serve as a timely reminder to those who will decide the fate of Middle Beach when the project team discusses the initial results from the year-long gathering of data in September.

In an Otago Daily Times front-page report six months ago, the Dunedin City Council reiterated that it would be looking at a range of "hard" and "soft" options for Middle Beach and that it would not be ruling anything in or out in coming to a solution.

The different types of solutions will have their own sets of unique problems and financial costs, a fact acknowledged by the council. The time scale of several years before any construction can take place, however, is the most telling feature of all.

So where does that leave the Middle Beach problem? The stadium costs and other major project spends will leave the council with very little money for this project.

The council has stated that $400,000 over the next three years has been set aside to deal with the problems (already depleted by at least $60,000 due to the recent events) but, rather alarmingly, no money has been set aside for a long-term management plan, or indeed for the four years until "any construction can take place".

By default, then, the council may have to consider the option that wasn't mentioned in either story but was raised at the submissions hearing - that of a "managed retreat".

  • Often, the initial response to shoreline erosion is to build a sea wall.
  • A sea wall will not solve the problem at Middle Beach.
  • Sea walls force waves back to the ocean.
  • These waves take the sand in front of the sea wall and deposit it far away from land.
  • The water in front of the sea wall gets deeper and makes for bigger waves next to the shoreline, so you always have to build larger sea walls.
  • The sea will always win this battle, because the force of water will always be stronger than any sea wall.
  • Adopting a managed retreat policy at Middle Beach will be successful if it begins at a grassroots level.

An open and honest approach will have a successful outcome, as it will involve all major players in the planning process and address their concerns.

Although the process will take time, a consensus can be reached that will enable a managed retreat to be the best alternative to solving the long-term problems of Middle Beach.

Indeed, this could take place in the "several years" before any construction takes place, as quoted in the newspaper report.

One could argue that consultation at a local level could have already begun since the submission hearings in April 2008 to hear and consider the views of the people that will ultimately be affected by whatever action the council decides upon.

A golden opportunity presents itself to the council here.

An integrated planning strategy can be developed where people affected by the erosion can be relocated into new sustainable housing developments where they would no longer be affected by the current sewage, drainage and flooding problems that will continually arise whenever there is a downpour in South Dunedin.

Property owners who would be affected could have compensation paid at market rates for their properties, or "swap" their current homes for new ones built to replace them.

Managed retreat, in the case of Middle Beach, is an important soft engineering coastal defence technique which aims to achieve sustainable flood defence by creating new defences further inland and allowing the land behind the existing sand dunes to be flooded by the incoming tide.

The existing coastal defence, in this case the sand dunes, would be breached, allowing the land to be tidally inundated and colonised over time by salt marsh vegetation. When established, the vegetation disperses wave energy during storms, reduces erosion rates and provides an important habitat for coastal flora and fauna. A new embankment is usually constructed beforehand on the landward side of the site to reduce the risk of flooding.

It is widely recognised that managed retreat of a shoreline can reduce the costs of coastal defence while offering numerous environmental benefits. Managed or "planned" retreat allows the shoreline to advance inward unimpeded. As the shore erodes, buildings and other infrastructure are either demolished or relocated inland. In many situations attempting to stop erosion through structural or non-structural solutions is a losing battle.

Shoreline protection efforts and/or their repeated maintenance would be too costly and ultimately ineffective at preventing further erosion. A managed retreat approach typically involves establishing thresholds to trigger demolition or relocation of structures threatened by erosion. The advantage of a managed retreat system is that it is usually less expensive than costly structural stabilisation projects that may only be a temporary solution, especially in highly erosive areas such as Middle Beach. It also maintains natural shoreline dynamics and enables shoreline habitats to migrate inland.

There are no direct costs, aside from the removal of any defences already in place, and maintenance costs are very low. The inter-tidal region is able to dissipate wave energy and protect property and land, while supporting a wide variety of plants, invertebrates, molluscs, birds and fish. Sediment flow is also restored to its natural state; beaches can be naturally replenished due to erosion of the coast, providing protection and the balance of the coastline returns.

Yes, this method can be politically difficult to implement, particularly where significant development has already occurred. It may cause shorefront property values to fall. With an in-built political and institutional preference for "hard" engineering schemes this solution will face a lot of opposition.

But what came first - the shoreline or the buildings? The future, as we all know, is unknown. Scientists forecast sea level rises, but there are unknowns that could rapidly change their forecasts. Therefore, the traditional approach to design cannot be applied to Middle Beach, simply because historical data is less applicable.

A change in outlook is required by how people plan for such challenges, how the community accepts the change, and crucially, how our council involves the communities to adapt to change. Rising sea levels do not come into the equation, as most of South Dunedin is currently below the present sea level.

The council has an opportunity here to be both forward-looking and bold in its search for a solution to the problem. History has shown that man cannot control nature, especially where sea action is concerned and the council should take this on board when looking for a solution.

As the council parks and reserves team leader Martin Thompson said (ODT, 16.01.2009): "We are at the mercy of the sea, basically, in terms of what sort of storm events we get . . ."

A sobering thought indeed.

Rabu, 26 Agustus 2009

More magenobashi o



Jeff Ho by Craig Stecyk III



Jeff & Carl Ekstrom at the Ventura Sacred Craft

Weather's been good, there's a bit of energy in the water and I've availed myself the last few days. Had some good moments courtesy of the Mackie flextail, coming off the bottom hard and fast which is needed in the closeouts I've been frequenting. Good fun, but back to work now.

Minggu, 23 Agustus 2009

What's The Japanese word for flex?




Mackie in Glide magazine. Seriously, any Japanese speaking readers out there- I'd love to know.

Rabu, 19 Agustus 2009

Ether Monthly #4



Mark 'Sutho' Sutherland by Andrew Kidman.
From 'Ether' available from Foam and Function

For many of us antipodeans, Sutho is something of a hero. He was and is responsible for the mighty 'Gonad Man' comics, some of the finest 'surf art' ever made. Back in the old days, the mighty Testicular one was a mind blower, utterly hysterical and totally universal in it's lack of respect for the sacred cows of the culture. It was around this time that young editor Kidman met mighty artist Sutho in the 'Waves' office and the two have been co-conspiritors of sorts ever since, both artistically with Sutho contributing animation (and genius monologues- check 'The Ghosts Are Calling' film, available with the new edition of 'Litmus) and musically as the Val Dusty Experiment. The above photo is from the morning after the band broke up. Sutho is still at it and Gonad Man is back at www.gonadman.com For a low subscription price you can have the new work delivered straight to your desktop- genius!





Minggu, 16 Agustus 2009

Beach Grove





The beach at Centennial Park runs out of steam as it heads north and is eventually replaced by a dike. But where the dike turns west (at 12th Avenue), a spit has formed and created a small lagoon and marsh. North of the lagoon, behind the houses on Beach Grove Road, seawalls line the narrow beach. Maybe next year I'll come back with more time and my bike - there's a trail that follows the dike eastward along Boundary Bay.

Fernwood





Saltspring is a pretty rocky island and beaches are scarce. This year I tried to get to the tombolo at Walker's Hook, but gave up in the face of mud and private property (yes, these Canadians are just as proprietary about their beaches as us Americans). Clearly, I need a boat.

Fernwood is on the northwest shore of the island, not far from St. Mary Lake where we stay every year and across the road from the Raven Street Market where we occasionally come for pizza. And now there' a coffee place, too, so I have another excuse to come down to the beach early in the morning before everyone else gets up.

The beach is a thin gravel one, anchored by outcrops of steeply dipping metamorphosed sediments and scattered glacial boulders.

Simster





As I've mentioned before, there's often someone's custom surfboard sitting in my house waiting delivery, and almost inevitably I'm frothing over the thing, wishing it were mine to soil with wax and pressure dents. This one is an absolute beauty, a 5'6" Simster via the talents of Joe Bauguess, and having ridden an earlier prototype of this board, I'm pretty heavily stoked on how this batch look like they'll ride. The original Simster is a lot of fun, sort of a performance version of the mini Sim with the trailing fin and narrower tail giving serious hold and responsiveness- whereas you surf a dual fin, these boards feel a lot more neutral and like a thruster go where you point them no problem. Unlike a thruster however, the Simsters have that awesome drive and planing feel of the mini- maybe not as blazingly fast down the line, but in more serious waves the speed of the mini makes some of those bottom turns a skin-of-the-teeth affair and there's none of that feel here. It's a really nice option on the days that the fat little fish isn't going to be the sensible ride. Along with the Lynch single fin, definitely the board discovery of the past 12-18 months for me. In case you feel like ragging me on the start of the garden, there's chunks that look might fine- like this.

Centennial Beach





Lily Point, at the southeast corner of Point Roberts, has been feeding sediment to the beach for millenia and waves have been sending it north to form the beaches that extend from Maple Beach
on the American side into Beach Grove on the Canadian side. Yes, several thousand cubic yards of American dirt going to Canada every year -- no charge, no duty, no intention to return. The sediment has accumulated in a series of prograding spits in the northwest corner of Boundary Bay, where they created the large marsh behind and beneath Beach Grove - now diked and managed to accommodate the growth of suburban Vancouver (this is all part of Tssawwassen).

The long history of accretion means there's a broad sandy backshore, and even some semblance of low dunes. The upper foreshore is a narrow band of gravelly sand, running along the edge of the broad flats of Boundary Bay. The transition between the upper foreshore and the flats occurs at mid-tide or above. The lower beach appeared to be a lag surface of small gravel.

What I found intiriguing was the strong southeast-northwest fabric to the lower beach - a pattern seen both in gravel ridges (amplitude of ten cms or so and wavelength of several meters) and in the sand between them (amplitude of mms and wavelength of several cms). Strange. These did not look like ripples or cusps or any sort of depositional feature - they looked more like erosional features (I'm not sure why I felt that). And their orientation was parallel to the large fetch from the southeast - where I might have expected just the opposite. It looked like a surface that had been scoured by strong southeast winds and waves. As with every beach, there is a story here. I just don't have much clue as to what it is.

Kamis, 13 Agustus 2009

Photographers




Ray Barbee by Patrick Trefz, from the 'Thread' book.

A couple of relevant shots from Patrick's book, Ray Barbee doing the non-music stuff. Trefz has been off in the far reaches of Baja tracking down Christian Beamish who's been sailing his little boat into all sorts of nooks and crannies down there. I have signed copies of the 'Thread' book for $30, free shipping inside the USA. Contact us at info at foamandfunction.com if you're interested- there's some of his prints from the book available too, framed and reasonably priced.


The Whomp- photo by Ryan Field.

Meanwhile Ryan, who's been shooting a lot of the Hydrodynamica footage, has got what is going to be a seriously great photo blog up and running at http://ryanfieldphotography.blogspot.com, he's linked on the side too. Well worth a visit, believe me.

Minggu, 09 Agustus 2009

More Flow than Ebb



All round nice guy and charmer Andy Davis had an opening party for the Ebb & Flow shop, and it was fully hard body. RK busted out new Hydro footage with some stuff from the Big South, J. Smart rolled some great footage from 'The Tyler Warren Experiments' and The Mattson's and Ray Barbee played in front of an Airstream, attracting the attentions of the local Constabulary. Fortunately one Copper was a fan of Ray and let him finish the set unmolested, get a permit next time gents. The shop looks great and Wegener's Alaia shaping deal across the road at Patagonia was a huge hit it seems. There was even a nice little swell showing out at the Cardiff Reef. Pretty awesome all round.

Kamis, 06 Agustus 2009

Interstellar Overdrive




Mackie's not the only mad bastard out there, here's an early Hydrodynamica Test Pilot board that Bauguess and Kenvin riffed on, but the fin setup made no-one happy. The big keels were taken off then RK decided to see what the spidermonkey groms could do with it as a tiny trailing fin board, meanwhile Joe B. is frothing to make the thing with a new fin setup, and so goes the meandering trail of progress. If you're in SoCal this weekend, vist lovely Cardiff On The Sea Saturday afternoon and evening. Patagonia will be hosting a series of Alaia workshops with Jon Wegener at their store on San Elijo Ave, and across the road the new Andy Davis store Ebb & Flow will host an opening party from 5pm on. RK will be there with films, I'll have some books and maybe boards, Primo in the house again- it'll be fun and I'm going to try and make Jon stick around for the Ando action so if you miss the workshops you can hit him up with those concave questions and score some nice t-shirts at the same time.

Rabu, 05 Agustus 2009

Elwha











The story of the beach between the mouth of the Elwha River and Port Angeles is well known – or at least often told. Dams, riprap, and a spit starved of sediment. Simple stories are easy to tell. There’s a longer, more complicated story, and one that I won’t try to tell here, in part because there are others working hard on figuring it out, but here’s snippet.

Years ago, I noticed in older aerial photos that the character of the beach between the delta and Dry Creek
seemed to change significantly on a decadal scale. Photos from the 1970s show a wide gravel berm and a heavily vegetated bluff, while photos from the 1990s showed a narrow berm and a bare, eroding bluff. By the beginning of this decade, the beach was widening again in locations and the bluff seemed to be responding by growing trees. When I walked this stretch in 2005, the beach showed evidence of the building seaward in sections, but for the most part the berm farther east was relatively narrow (beach level photos).

Last week, I flew over this stretch of shoreline and took this aerial of the same stretch. Wow! Whatever the mechanics – longshore drift, onshore transport – that’s a lot of gravel!

In the spirit of multiple working hypotheses…. The Elwha probably releases sediment to the beach in pulses, maybe associated with avulsion of the spits that regluarly form across its mouth, and one would expect these to travel downdrift in a somewhat coherent fashion. Or alternatively, there are oceanographic or meteorological factors that lead to long-term cycles of accretion and erosion. Or maybe, longshore gravel transport in highly oblique wave environments is influenced by nonlinearities that give rise to emergent landforms (I’ve probably butchered the jargon). Or maybe all three.

Senin, 03 Agustus 2009

How to Enjoy Life in The Toughest of Times

If you're not being blessed in your life, your family, or your work, don't you think it's time to get serious with God who knows how to give good gifts to His children? You can read about it from Matthew 7:11 which says, "If you then, being evil, know how to give good gifts to your children, how much more will your Father who is in heaven give good things to those who ask Him!" I call this my personal 7/11.

Our life can only be blessed by God if we give priority to Him over everyone and everything else (e.g. our temporal enjoyment and pleasures in life). The fact is, God is seeking for individuals whom He wants to bless with fruitfulness (see John 15:1-8). We only need to get connected with Him faithfully. To ignore Him is to diminish your chances of experiencing the blessed life He's promised (see John 10:10).

Minggu, 02 Agustus 2009

Mick Mackie, surfboard shaper



Mick & Taro Tamai



They've had waves in Australia



7 fin option



Asymmetrical Andrew demonstrates 'coming off the bottom'



A few from our man in Ulladulla, he's been working a bit, surfing a bit and after some snow recreation will be making a few boards for us, so now's the time to get that order in for fall and hopefully better waves. There's a stock flextail here and we can set you up with whatever you want, just email info at foamandfunction.com. There's been some pretty epic work being done by the Australians, more soon.......