Minggu, 18 Oktober 2009
Profane Directional Stabilisers...
and the board for them (the big flex fin anyway). New Mackies fresh off the aeroplane, a 6'6" bonzer for Paul here, felt like an absolute screamer under the arm so I'm hoping the decent little swell we've had the last few days sticks around a bit. Personally, I had probably the funnest surf I've had in a really long while yesterday at a spot I hit purely for proximity to a board drop off. Peaky, chest to head high but oh so crowded. Sat out the back a bit, got a few meaty rights and I am feeling mighty good.
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